Showing posts with label calle 21 de mayo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label calle 21 de mayo. Show all posts

Thursday, January 14, 2010

Day 20- Arica, Chile

Today we again woke up early, packed, and left our things at the front desk of the Surf House. We chatted for a while with the very friendly hostel owner named Curt, and got some suggestions on things to do with our last morning in Arica. After a quick breakfast on Calle 21, we took a colectivo taxi to the nearby San Miguel de Azapa Archeological Museum. Once we arrived, we went in and had the chance to see many Pre-Incan native artifacts, as well as the world's oldest mummies! Yes, it is true, they are older than the famous ones in Egypt. I had never even heard of these Chilean mummies before, but they were truly unique and amazing to see. I am surprised they are not more famous since they are very well preserved, and the oldest known existing mummies. They were very tiny, almost shrunken looking, and had creepy faces with clay accents. The people wrapped them in tight cloth to mummify them, and then put clay on them to keep the features pronounced. While they were a bit scary looking, it was fascinating to think how long they'd been around. After walking around and seeing our fill of ancient artifacts, we headed back to Calle 21 de Mayo again. Instead of having a real lunch, I persuaded John that we go to a heladería (something America needs to pick up on). A heladería is basically just a restaurant, but the menu only consists of amazing and intricate desserts! It is a heavenly idea. We sat down, and the waiter brought us out banana splits. Yes, I ate the whole thing. No, I am not ashamed. Delicioso! We had a bus out of the city at two, and when we got back to the hostel we realized that there was a time change we had not noticed. We thought it was noon, but it was actually 1pm. Good thing we checked! We grabbed our backpacks and cabbed it quickly to the Arica bus station.

Once we were there, I walked up to the office where we had bought our tickets yesterday from the company Trans Salvador. I showed them our receipt, and the woman looked confused. She said the bus was sold out. I was also confused because we had proof of having bought seats. She made some calls and then informed me that they had accidentally sold our seats to someone else. I was furious! I mean, really- enough is enough! I officially hate South American bus companies. I started losing my cool, and yelled at the woman saying that since we bought the tickets first we should get the seats, and the other people should have to wait. For some reason that made no sense to her, so John and I were the ones stuck. I found out that the next bus didn't leave until midnight that night, and so I demanded a refund. She said no other bus companies were leaving for La Paz sooner than that, and wouldn't refund it. I started getting emotional from all the frustration, and cried in front of her. It was embarrassing, but at least she knew how her horrible business practices made me feel. I should have left to calm down and made John talk, but she spoke no English. I continued arguing with her, and finally just gave in and swapped for the bus leaving at midnight instead of at 2pm. I then told her that since her company had inconvenienced us, they had to pay for John and I to take a cab back to our hostel so we'd have a place to leave our things and spend the day. Apparently customer service isn't the best in Chile. She should have been nicer and gone out of her way to help us since she had ruined things, but no. She didn't even once say she was sorry or apologize. Since she wouldn't help us I went to the other desk for the company, and after some arguing with another lady I finally got my way. John and I left the bus station in a free taxi, but we were so mad! We would now have one less day in La Paz thanks to the company being idiots.

After all the drama, we were back in the central part of town. Curt, the hostel guy, was shocked about what happened and said we could use the common rooms and showers at the hostel for the rest of the day. At least he was nice! Since we didn't have many things left to do in Arica, we decided to change and head to the beach. On our walk into town we noticed a street light that had an "ultraviolet ray indicator" on it since Arica is so close to the equator. It had 5 levels of strength, and today the light was on orange (the middle one) meaning "high risk". It said for people with pale skin, it is only safe to be exposed to the sun for 17-20 minutes max! Making sure we had sunscreen, we took a small bus down to a different beach than the one from yesterday. It was extremely crowded with people, and the area to swim in was a small inlet of water, almost like a lagoon. There were many rocks in the water, and children were swimming everywhere. It wasn't exactly relaxing, but I was happy to be by the ocean regardless. John and I ventured out into the water, and for some reason it was freezing! The water yesterday had felt great. As we were swimming around, I noticed there were many sharp rocks on the ocean floor. We were getting pushed by the undertow and kept hitting our feet on them. At one point, I stepped down and then felt a surge of pain. I thought I had just bruised or scraped the sensitive middle part of my foot on a rock, and so we went back to our towel. I looked at it, and noticed it was very purple and splotchy, and then noticed several long, black, splinter-looking things in my foot. I wasn't sure why it was like that, but I knew that it hurt. After a while we got up to catch the local bus, and I then realized walking was very painful. I had to limp my way to it!

Back at the hostel, Curt took a look at my foot and told me that I had stepped on and been stung by a sea urchin! He said they leave dark purple or black spikes in your foot if you step on them. He advised that we try to get the spikes out so that walking wouldn't be so painful (the photo is of a sea urchin, I obviously didn't take it though). So, John and I sat down in the common area of the hostel. There were about 5 other people in the room and they witnessed this whole ordeal, which was embarrassing. John took out his head lamp to be able to see where the spikes were in my foot, and then got out some supplies. I saw scissors, needles, and a tweezers and knew I couldn't watch. He began the painful process of cutting open the areas around the spikes, trying to dig them up with a needle to be closer to my skin's surface, and then using tweezers to remove them. After about an hour of me sitting there in pain, crying and making odd noises in front of strangers, only 5/6 of the spikes were removed. The biggest one was very deep in my foot and wasn't coming out. John didn't want to cut a huge slice in my foot, so I resigned myself to the fact that walking was going to be painful for a while.

After that lovely event, John and my gimp self headed out for dinner. We chose a nice place on the main street with outdoor seating, and our waiter Felipe was very chatty. I decided to get apple juice, but it was just chunky apple slices blended up together. It was odd. Afterward, we decided to do some window shopping and stroll the main street for a final time. I was trying to figure out ways to walk that wouldn't put pressure on the spike- I was only partially successful. We returned again to the hostel, and weren't sure what to do to kill time before our bus left. We ended up watching TV with some New Zealanders in the common room for a while, and then I took a shower. Curt called us a taxi to the bus station, and we gave him a few dollars to thank him for letting us stay there that day.

Back at the dreaded bus station, I was surprised that our seat was still ours and hadn't been re-sold again! We boarded the charter bus at midnight, and then for some unknown reason it went about one block away, and then stopped. It stayed idle for an entire hour. I was getting furious again. It didn't help that it was insanely hot on the bus and my window was stuck shut so I couldn't get any breeze. By that point, I had lost all patience. Finally, the bus decided to move. We didn't travel very far, and then we stopped at the Bolivian border. The border crossing was closed for the night, so the bus parked from 4am-8am. This 6 hour journey was now going to take about 11 hours thanks to the bus company being horrible!

(As an update, the sea urchin spike stayed stuck in my foot, partially dissolving until it was close enough to be tweezed out in mid April-- 3.5 months later!)

Wednesday, January 13, 2010

Day 19- Arica, Chile

Waking up after dawn is a great feeling! Being clean is nice too. To start our day on the coastal town of Arica, John and I got some advice from the owner of our hostel. We then went to the main street in the town and exchanged our remaining bolivianos for some Chilean pesos. While there, we stopped and had some omelettes then took a colectivo taxi to the local bus station. While there we bought our tickets from Arica to La Paz. Now, to give a little background on the city, one thing you should know is that Arica has extremely strong UV rays. It is so dry that many of the houses, stores, and buildings are open-air and have whole nice furniture sets and paintings just sitting outside. It is so arid that our hostel owner said it hadn't rained more than .03 inches since he was a little boy. Arica is thus known as one of the "driest inhabited places on Earth"! It also is well known for its great surfing waves, and is the surfing capital of Chile since the 2007 Rip Curl Surf Championships were held there.

Next, we went to the Catedral de San Marcos. It was designed by Gustav Eiffel, the man who designed the Eiffel tower. We walked around inside, interrupting a field trip, and got some photos. We then stepped outside into the Plaza Colón and I really enjoyed the atmosphere. The weather was of course, sunny and beautiful, and there were fountains everywhere. After getting some fresh squeezed juice at a street stall we began
to walk uphill towards a large rocky hill/cliff overlooking the whole city. It is known as El Morro, and it had a Chilean flag flying atop of it and a banner saying "Feliz Año 2010!" There was a path leading from the residential streets (filled with turn of the century colorful homes) that lead up to the top of the morro. The path zig-zagged up until it reached many steep, narrow steps. The intense heat made this journey not so fun. Arriving at the top was worth it though because the view was great! You could see the coastline, beaches, downtown, and the dry, rocky mountains. There was also a Jesus statue (which is apparently a popular thing to put on top of hills) as well as a historical museum which contained the old cannons the Chilean army used during their war for independence. As we walked around the perimeter of the cliff enjoying the views, I also appreciated the breeze. As we were leaving we found a man selling popsicles, and I gladly bought one for the walk back into town.

We headed back to Arica Surf House hostel, and decided to do some laundry. We filled up a tub in a back room and handwashed some of our things, hanging them out on a line to dry. Afterwards we went back at the main plaza. There we found an interesting McDonald's called "Auto Mac" that was an outdoor walk up stand. The monetary symbol for pesos is the dollar sign $ and since one USD equals 490 pesos, we saw advertis
ements that said "Big Mac: $1700", it was pretty funny. After walking down the main street filled with shops, restaurants, and street vendors we went back and got our things ready for the beach!

We decided to walk to a nice beach area known as Playas Corazones, and after a 25 minute stroll we finally arrived! The beach was very wide and had a decent crowd. There was a playground on it, as well as some hotels and snack shops. We set down our towels and then went out into the refreshing water. It felt awesome, and I was excited because it was my first time ever swimming in the Pacific ocean! We went out somewhat deep, and as we were swimming I noticed something large and grayish swim by about ten feet away. I freaked out for a minute thinking it was a shark or a whale or something, so we swam back. About 5 minutes later I saw it again, but this time I realized it was just a sea lion! It was so cute! I was enjoying the ocean, but since John isn't a big ocean lover we went back to the towel and I bought myself a snack and sat down, soaking up the sun. It was great to get a chance to relax since the last few days had been so full of activity!

When it was time to leave I made John find us a cab since I had bad blisters from the wise decision of walking in flip flops. After that, we decided to stroll the lively main street called Calle 21 de Mayo. It has a really fun, beachy, atmosphere so I of course loved it! Filled with many unique shops, street musicians, colorful flowers, and food, it was also a great way to get a feel for the city. While walking I noticed a bunch of teenagers
carrying around signs saying "abrazos gratis", meaning "free hugs". I'm not sure what it was for, but for some reason I went up and asked the girl to give me the free hug. You know, just bonding with the Chilean people. Anyways, we then returned to the hostel, showered, and headed out to the other side of town with all the large open air markets and shops. All of the stands are totally packed with the goods for sale, and the walkways down the rows were filled with people. I ended up buying a keychain, a little red pot, a locally made shell necklace, and a lovely purple dress. I was happy because as always, they were all purchased at a great low price! So, there is this energy drink popular in Chile and it's called "cocaina", and John wanted some. Needless to say, it was a little awkward walking up to different shops and asking if they had cocaina- but don't worry, I always made sure I specified it was the drink! After we had our fill of shopping and bartering, we strolled back towards Plaza Colón and then headed towards the walkway that went along the beach. On the way there I started hearing a very weird sound coming from the trees. It honestly sounded like pigs oinking. It was actually coming from these huge crane looking birds that were everywhere. They were splattering giant drops all over the sidewalk too, so we were very cautious! We then sat down to watch the sunset over the ocean, and were entertained by some lively pelicans.

We headed back to the main calle for dinner and chose a place called Cafe del Mar. We assumed from its name "Ocean Cafe" that it would have primarily seafood, but oddly they only had one seafood dish! We sat at a table outside on the street, and after chatting with our waiter, a few stray dogs came up next to me. In Chile they don't seem to have a very good animal control system, because stray dogs are very common. They seem to be all over the place and it is normal and accepted by the locals. These two dogs were dirty and likely had fleas, and they started barking and biting each other. It was dangerously close to my legs and I was getting scared. The waiter tried to shoo them away but at one point just gave up. Oh well- when in Rome...

While finishing up our meal we noticed that some sort of parade was beginning on the street. It was getting dark, and several people walked by chanting with t-shirts and banners saying to re-elect Edoardo Frei for President. It wasn't that interesting at first, but then the musicians came followed by a huge crowd of people singing some song about how great this guy Frei is. It was a little bit comical, but definitely a great thing to witness. After the chorus the flag wavers came, and then a group of dancers in elaborate costumes danced down the street. It felt impromptu because the streets weren't blocked off and people were confused, yet despite that it was a very entertaining political parade. I was glad we had front row seats for it too! With the music and the energy it was really fun and definitely made me feel like I was in a hispanic culture.


El Desfile Politicó

Since nothing else could top that display, we headed back to the surf house for the night. The TV was playing shows in English, I was so excited. After speaking to people in Spanish all day it is nice to just check out and stop trying at the end of the day. As I was falling asleep later on, I heard an odd noise. I was convinced it was cockroaches evilly running around in the walls. There was a cockroach in the shower earlier, so I was on guard. However, it only ended up being the sound of the ice in my cup crackling and melting. It didn't last very long, Arica is so hot.