Day 22- La Paz, Bolivia

After a quick breakfast at Loki hostel we hailed a cab and headed down to Plaza Isabela La Católica. We waited there until a double-decker open top tourist bus arrived. I'd seen an ad for the tour at the hostel yesterday, and since La Paz is very hilly and spread out I thought it would be a good way to easily see the city (and allow me to avoid walking on the sea urchin spike!). The price wasn't bad at all, so we climbed on to the top level. Every seat had a set of headphones so we could hear a recording stating historical facts and what we were looking at. The bus quickly filled up, and it was a very diverse group. Our tour guide asked John and I where we were from, and she was surprised to hear the US. She said not many Americans come to Bolivia because it is not very popular with the US, and many Americans are hesitant to come since our country has somewhat negative relations with the Bolivian government. The US ambassador was recently asked to leave the US embassy in La Paz actually! It is also expensive and somewhat difficult to obtain all the necessary things for the Visa that Americans need to enter the country. It did make me feel good though that despite that, we were still adventurous enough to give the country a try!

We began to ride around the main streets of La Paz and saw many plazas and statues. Most of the monuments were of heroes from the many wars for independence, as well as a few of the original indigenous leaders. One thing I noticed about La Paz, besides being extremely filled with people, is that there are a mass amount of electric wires strung over the city streets. The bus was very tall, and there were several moments where the wires were just inches away from hitting the bus. There were many close calls that made me a little nervous, and a few times we had to duck our heads down!

After about a half hour, we stopped the bus at a mirador called Killi Killi. We walked up the steps to the overlook and instantly had a fantastic view of the entire city. We could see how massive the city is, and how it continues on into the mountains. We could see the infamous "death road" in the distance (the world's most dangerous road- it has crazy narrow streets looming on the edges of steep cliffs), the soccer stadium, and the large mountain called Illimani. It was a fantastic vantage point, and it was easy to get some great photos. We then got back on the bus, continued driving through the city, and returned to the Plaza.

Since the tour was over, John and I decided to get a cab to take to the Plaza Murillo. When we arrived, the place was buzzing with activity. Families were out enjoying the sunny day, and vendors were selling their goods while the large population of pigeons walked around begging for crumbs. Many people were gathered around the steps of the Cathedral, so John and I went in to take a look. Mass was going on, so we quietly walked around. It was a European style Cathedral, clearly built by the Spanish. Once we left the church we tried to go and look around the President's mansion. Unfortunately, the place was closed for construction. It was a bit of a disappointment since that was the plaza's main attraction. Despite that, John and I continued to walk around the side streets. We came across a smaller church that was decorated for a wedding, and after peeking in to get some pictures, we saw the guests and wedding party begin to file in. I had seen several other brides at churches during our bus ride, and it seemed odd to me that there were so many weddings going on in January. I guess I should have thought about the fact that it is summer in Bolivia! After I bought my mom some religious themed jewelry from a vendor by the church, we started walking up the hill to find food. On the way, we saw the same German couple we had talked to in Puno! We introduced ourselves, and once they remembered us, we chatted for a little bit. I am still so jealous that they can travel the world by docking their yacht at various harbors- they had been out of Germany for nearly a year!

Once John ate his usual empanada, we cabbed it back to the hostel. After quickly freshening up we walked back to the main Plaza San Francisco. On the way there I was hunting for some lunch "to go", but fast food options don't really exist in La Paz. Out of desperation I had to get a kids meal from Burger King. The chicken was very odd tasting so I didn't even end up eating it. Once we got to the plaza, packed with people as usual, I bought some ice cream from a vendor. That hit the spot! After strolling around, John and I decided that we wanted to see the lower part of the city, so we decided to cab it back to Plaza Isabela and do the second tour offered by the bus company we had done earlier.

We paid for our tickets and were ready to go on the tour which would explore the "southern circuit" of La Paz. This part of the city is the wealthier part of town, and it is unique because in most cities the wealthy people live at the higher elevations, or on the mountaintops. In La Paz though, the higher you climb, the more poverty you will see. On the bus ride we drove through a tunnel that was very low, and it was somewhat scary sitting on top of the bus. We also drove through some neighborhoods were political protests were going on. There were some rallies and people picketing, and the cops were of course nearby. There is much political unrest in Bolivia because of the huge money gap. The wealthy few make thousands, but the rest make almost nothing. There is no such thing as a middle class in Bolivia, and this imbalance naturally creates a lot of tension.


The final stop we arrived at is an area known as the Valle de La Luna, or Moon Valley. It is a very beautiful and interesting landscape, somewhat reminiscent of the southwest US or Grand Canyon. It is a national park, but in the surrounding areas you could see many newly built mansions and upscale country clubs. We entered the preserve, and got to walk around and explore the many unique rock formations. The rocks have crazy shapes, formed from erosion. The one in the photo is an odd rock named "Lady's Hat". Climbing the steep rock formations was actually fun- luckily there were little trails to follow. In the distance we could also see an oddly shaped mountain called El Diente Del Diablo, or the "Devil's tooth". There were also many steep crevices and little caves throughout the tall, narrow rock formations. It was all so unique, and beautiful. I think these views are on of the highlights of the trip that I will always remember first when I think of my time in La Paz. As we continued to explore we got many great photos, and at one point a random man started playing some tribal flute while standing on a rock. Towards the end of our time exploring, it began to rain. We got onto the lower level of the bus and headed back to the Plaza.

Once we were dropped off, we weren't exactly sure what we should do next. We decided to go back to El Mercado Hecicheria (Witches Market) to get in some last minute bargain hunting and souvenir shopping. I had seen on the Internet that there was a Hard Rock Cafe in La Paz, and since I collect their merchandise we began a hunt to find it. While we were in a shop buying chess sets which hilariously depicted the Incans vs. the Conquistadors, I chatted with the woman about it. She gave me directions, but when John and I walked there it didn't exist. It was very confusing. We eventually figured out that a local bar called itself the Hard Rock Cafe- copyright infringement anyone? After that futile search, we went back down to the fruit market. I got some more apple juice in a plastic bag, and John got a huge papaya. By this point, my foot was killing me. Walking around on the hilly cobblestone streets filled with potholes and people traffic is not easy to navigate while having a gimp foot!

Back at Loki Hostel we decided to check out the oxygen bar on the third floor. It is the self proclaimed "world's highest oxygen bar", and after picking out our flavors (I picked lavender) we sat back, and relaxed. The oxygen bar is supposed to help people like me, who have some soroche (altitude sickness) but after the session was done I basically just felt drunk. Not sure why. At that point though, we discovered that you could climb onto the roof of the hostel. There were some Brazilian teens hanging out up there, and it provided a perfect view of Mount Illimani in the distance. It was beautiful to see!

For our final venture in La Paz we had the hostel call us a cab that would take us back to the Killi Killi Mirador. We arranged for him to take us there so we could get photos, and then wait for us and bring us back. I was glad about this because the mirador was in a somewhat sketchy area of the city and I was paranoid about being stranded there at night. Once we arrived we got some photos of the city lights and took in our final views of La Paz. The cab driver took us back to Loki, and we decided to check out the restaurant and bar on the second floor. The place was totally packed with travelers, most of which were from New Zealand, England, and Ireland. After ordering some food at the bar, I noticed a table behind me that consisted of 12 young British guys. I texted Christina saying that our life dream was happening- if only that table had been there when we were single ladies traveling together two years ago! Haha.

After enjoying some celebratory drinks, John and I sadly went back to the room to pack up. The hostel has a glass ceiling, and at that point it started storming and raining really badly. It was pretty cool to see, especially since the hostel is so pretty on the inside. Once we were done packing I headed downstairs and decided to put my brown shoes I had bought in Lima in a collections box so that the they would be given to the street children in the city. They were only used once, so I hope whatever kid ends up with them will enjoy them! It was then time to shower, and after the first three stalls I went to weren't emitting water, just scary noises, I finally had success. Then, I went to sleep listening to the sounds of thunder and young travelers loudly partying the night away.

Day 21- La Paz, Bolivia

The majority of last night and this morning were spent on a parked bus at the Chilean-Bolivian border. Once the border crossing office decided to open, we could finally move. We did the whole visa-stamping business, and said adios to Chile. Then we got in yet another line to re-enter Bolivia. They searched our bags and while standing there I realized that my foot was throbbing in pain. On the rest of the smelly bus ride I tried to elevate my foot a little, but it was so bumpy that didn't quite work out. Finally, we arrived in La Paz! We got a cab and made it to our next hostel, Loki Backpacker's. It was a huge 4 story place, and I learned it was a Victorian era hotel and theater that they had renovated. It was definitely a really eclectic and nice place.

Our room was trashed when we first got to it, so while we waited on the maid I tried to tend to my foot. Apparently the best cure for sea urchin wounds is to soak it in vinegar. I had no idea where I would find this though. I tried to just ignore it, and so John and I headed into town towards the Plaza San Francisco. Luckily he was being patient because my gimp version of walking was a bit slow. We basically just looked around and tried to get our bearings, making a quick stop at the Cathedral, and had an overly slow lunch at a tourist restaurant. After that, we wandered up the crowded, narrow cobblestone streets towards the mysterious Calle Linares, where the Mercado de Las Brujas (Witch's Market) is located.

We walked down the narrow street- it was a bit dark from the clouds, and that added to the mystical vibe. There, the local witches known as the yatiri, who dress in dark hats and carry coca pouches, sell their goods. In the past, the yatiri were healers who studied herbal remedies (many of them involving coca leaves) and who were seen as religious leaders. When the Spanish came they of course labeled these revered people as "witches". At first the street just seemed like another place filled with various trinkets for sale, but upon closer look I realized that the merchandise was a little different. In addition to the jewelry, ceramics, and Incan god pendants being sold, many of the old women were selling dried up llama fetuses and dried armadillos that were hanging from the ceilings. It was a bit grotesque to see, and when we entered a small shop the odd smell of their bodies took over. It might sound disgusting, but it was actually really interesting! We tried to haggle with the old woman in the shop, and successfully walked away with our hands full of some souvenirs (no llamas here!).

Apparently Bolivians believe if you burn a llama fetus, sacrifice it to the Pachamama (Mother Earth), and bury it under your house you will have good luck and prosperity. It is supposedly common for most Bolivian households to do this! In addition to these goods being sold, many people were selling odd talismans (owl feathers, toad legs), herbal remedies or "potions", unique jewelry amulets, and some places even had signs advertising spells for sale! I ended up buying a necklace that is the Incan sign for the sun, and also bought a ring for Christina. John and I also bought several small pendants that depicted different gods in the Incan religion, and that each symbolize something different. While some of the stands were obviously touristy and fake, there were a few you could tell were legitimate "witch" shops. They had signs for sorcery and fortune telling, and rather than selling t-shirts and rings they had gems, little potion bottles, and a variety of dried up animals. The yatiri are wary of having their photos taken, so we didn't get the chance to take all that many.

Another interesting tradition we saw while at the Witches Market was that many people were selling statues of a short, little fat guy. His name is Ekeko, and he is the god of material possessions. People will buy statues of him, put it in their homes, and hang miniature items on him to represent what they want. If you want financial success, put little dollars on him, or even a lottery ticket. Many people deck him out with chocolate, coca leaves, money, tickets, photos, etc. and for it to become "real" the statues have to be blessed by a yatiri. If Ekeko thinks you are too greedy, he will keep with the Aymara tradition of "all things in balance", and your wishes may not come true. Upon learning this, John of course bought an Ekeko statue.

We departed the Calle Jimenez and headed down hill towards the crowded and never-ending town of tent booths known as El Mercado Negro: The Black Market. There you can find cheap knock off designer items and pirated entertainment. The booths went on forever, and there were so many items for sale and so many people it felt a bit stressful. I didn't find very much I wanted, though I did buy a Spanish copy of the Twilight book! We continued to roam around the loud, crowded and chaotic streets towards a large outdoor food market known as Mercado Lanza. They had many fruits for sale, as well as some unidentifiable meats. After purchasing apple juice, made by smashing up apple slices and then serving it in a plastic bag with a straw stuck in it, we continued on (I thought the apple bag drink was funny, it was their version of a "to go" cup I guess). We passed a large crowd gathered around a man story-telling, and after walking through the local flower market, we attempted to find a place for dinner.

The restaurant choices in La Paz seemed a bit limited. We had a hard time finding places, and we ended up eating at Angelo Colonial- somewhere our guidebook recommended. The food was okay but the restaurant was a bit creepy. It was medieval themed, but it was really dark and full of antiques, plus we were the only customers. Walking up steep, narrow hills all day in the tiring altitudes of the world's highest capital city can really suck up all your energy, so we returned to Loki. Next to the hostel's doors I noticed there were 3 children sitting on a blanket- one was an infant. They were just there on the side of the street, no parent in sight. I had seen them earlier but didn't realize the sad reality that were likely homeless children, maybe waiting on their mom alone all day. It really upset me to see that. I later found out that there are an estimated 9,000 "street children" in the city. Charities have some homes set up, but the local government does nothing for them. Thinking about them, I counted my blessings, and it was time for bed.

Day 11- Puerto Maldonado-Cuzco, Peru

After enjoying our final breakfast at the Corto Maltes lodge, we got our stuff ready to go in our backpacks and said our goodbyes. I was a little sad to say goodbye to Luci, I really did view her as a friend and she was so interesting to talk to, I was sad to think I'll likely never see her again. The canoe motor driver put our things into the boat, and for a minute there was a struggle trying to maintain balance on the boat so it wouldn't tip over! Once we worked it out, we all headed on the 45 minute ride down the Madre de Dios river, out of the jungle, and back towards the small town of Puerto Maldonado. At the dock we were met by a girl working for the tour company, and she helped us put our bags into the van. Before taking us to the airport she said we would get to explore the town a little. We then stopped in the middle of a busy street in the central part of the town. She led us around the open air markets to get a feel for the town. It was definitely a new experience for me. We were the only foreign people in sight as we walked around the open air markets, taking in all the sights and action around us. The dusty streets were full of motor bikes, carts, and vendors. The different stands for things like fresh fruit, meat, fish, clothes and jewelry lined the streets, and continued back underneath many more tents. I saw a wide variety of things being sold- it ranged from pirated Spanish DVDs and colorful clothes to live chickens, bunnies and puppies. (I hope the puppies were being sold as pets, but I doubt the rabbits were!) There were also massive fish just laying on tables with flies swarming them. It was loud, busy, colorful, and a lot for the eyes to take in. Once we had our fill of exploring in the heat, we were taken to the little Puerto Maldonado airport. It was oppressively hot in there, and since it was basically outside, the only cool air was coming from the fans on the ceiling, but it didn't help much. John and I had about 2 hours to kill before our flight, and since the airport was one large room, there wasn't much to do besides read and write postcards.

Once our flight came and left, we were back in Cuzco- and back to comfortable temperatures! At the Cuzco airport we were more or less assaulted by the many people trying to sell tours or trips to Machu Picchu. I wish I could have worn a t-shirt that said "I already went" or something. Would've been nice. We went out to get a cab, and since the last time we took a cab into the city from this airport we were basically jipped, we were resolute in our price negotiations with the cab drivers. We started at 30 soles and after getting rejected by some I talked it down to about half that. It was nice that we knew the tricks they try to pull, since we're basically pros now, haha. We found ourselves back in the Plaza San Francisco, and back in our old hostel, Pirwa Colonial. They let us store our luggage there and we headed out to get lunch at the empanada place John is obsessed with for one last time. We then wandered around the Plaza de Armas some more. I saw the evil little girls again, and tried to avoid them. They scare me a bit. Anyways, we kept strolling around central Cuzco. During this time sales girls ran up to us frequently and we were probably offered about 30 different chances to get a massage or a manicure. It was fairly annoying, but a little funny. I guess they thought John's nails were looking bad. At one point a guy came up to John and asked if he was an American, and upon saying yes, offered him some illegal stuff. We of course denied this offer, and left that area right away. It was a bit humorous though that he assumed American = go for it.

Since we had a lot of time before our night bus, we went back to the hostel and spent time hanging out on the top floor. We played some pool (I lost) and darts (I won!), and then spent some time reading and writing. For dinner we found a place earlier that offered a 5 course meal for only 15 soles (2.50$), so we returned there. I was amazed at how much food we got, and at such a great price! I will miss that about Peru for sure. After that we got our backpacks and cabbed it to the bus station. We waited for a little, and then got on our two story bus. Our assigned seats were luckily "bus-cama" seats (the label for a bus seat that reclines back into a 'bed' or a lounge chair sort of thing), and we were in front of a group of Canadians about my age. We started chatting with them about their travel experiences, and it was fun to swap stories. Before the bus left the station though, a woman decided to have a hissy fit. We think that in Peru, the wealthier people normally sit on the bottom floor because the seats are a tiny bit more spacious. On this bus though, they were all the same. The woman didn't realize this, and so thought the company was degrading her by making her sit on the top floor, and in a small seat. She started screaming and yelling in Spanish, and I caught that she said "you have cheated me!!"/"Me ha engañado!!" and she also said something derogatory towards Argentinians? Not sure why. She was so mad that she screamed "Stop this bus!!!!/Pare este autobús!!!" and would not allow the bus to leave until her little problem was fixed. Basically the workers convinced her all the seats were the same, they were not cheating her, etc. yet she was still extremely angry, throwing a little temper tantrum for all of us. I can't believe what a snobby and inconsiderate person she was, thinking that the whole bus was happy to stop and wait for her to throw a fit before we were finally allowed to leave. It was actually really funny though. The Canadians got a big kick out of it and so did I. The rest of the night was spent attempting to fall asleep on a cold and uncomfortable bus ride through the narrow mountain roads on the way to Puno.